Going to Africa, I knew that, for better or worse, issues of race would be a part of my travel. It was a huge learning experience, as I was often the only white person I saw for days.
Mozungu is the word that many people in East Africa use to describe white people. I don’t really like the term because it’s obviously a racial term (some people insisted that it means foreigner, but when discussing this further, they admitted that the wouldn't call an African-American mozungu). People will call you Mozungu, or they will yell things like ‘hey Mozungu, come here’. I liken it to being called ‘whitey’. It’s as if my name becomes insignificant- it is only my race that seems to matter.
But I know that a lot of people don’t use it in an intentionally racist way (that doesn’t make it ok, though). Even little kids will point and yell ‘Mozungu’, and then groups of kids will look up and stare.
As I went through many villages, I wondered if I was the first ‘Mozungu’ that people had seen. In Mozambique we went pretty far off the main roads and walked down endless paths through small villages making our way to see fishponds and irrigation projects. In one of these villages, a group of kids saw me and ran over to the side of the road. They kept a safe distance- in case I would bite them! They just stared and stared. After a little while, I turned and wiggled my eyebrows for a second, looking straight at them. They all jumped back at once, and then, realizing how silly this was, started to laugh. I made a couple more faces at them, and then as we continued on, they waved goodbye.
In other places, a group of kids would gather around me, just watching and studying my behavior. It felt like I was the object of a science project. As I walked, they would walk. When I stopped, they would stop. But they were always at least 15 feet away. These areas never had electricity or even books, so I am sure that the kids never saw a white person unless it was in person.
I was treated very differently because of my race, but this wasn’t necessarily in a negative way. Taxi drivers always beeped or shouted at me, seeing if I wanted a ride. Tour guides flocked to me and would even stalk me to try and convince me to go on their tour. Even when I told them that I was a volunteer and would not be taking any tours, they still wouldn’t leave me alone.
Any time I went up to a shop to buy something, they always gave me the mozungu price. Whatever it costs, double it. There are no prices on the goods, so you have to take the persons word on it. I quickly learned to only go shopping with a local.
After making friends with Africans my age, eventually many of them would turn to a more serious subject. Could I get them a scholarship to go to college? I found this ironic because I myself am going back to school, putting together the funds I need to study!
These are all forms of racism in my opinion, but a very different type of racism than that which we had and still have in the USA and in other countries. Unfortunately, this treatment made me question whether I could really trust anyone. Were people being honest with me? Were they helping me and being nice to me just because they hoped I would give them a tip? Did they befriend me just to try and get a scholarship?
Without a doubt, the motives of some people were not genuine, but I think that the vast majority were. Africans are known for their hospitality, and this was something I witnessed and benefited from many times. I even started to ask myself what I would do in their position. If I just finished high school but couldn’t go to college, because of the money, what would I do? Would I just give up this dream of mine, and with it a huge chance to rise out of poverty? Or would I approach someone I thought could possibly help?
In Africa, I learned a lot about what its like to experience racism, and it wasn’t fun. Being in this type of setting for an extended period of time allowed me to feel racism everyday. And imagine- this wasn’t even some of the worst types of racism I have witnessed!
Thankfully, I don’t have to deal with this on an everyday basis in my home country. But imagine what its like for those people who do...